![]() Some CA can be removed or reduced in post-production, but it’s always best to avoid it from the beginning. It’s caused by a lens whose optics cannot focus all color wavelengths of an image at the same point. It appears on the final image as ghosting that is sometimes called color fringing. CA is a digital artifact that occurs on images when there is a sharp contrast between light and dark areas. High-end lenses are less likely to be plagued with these problems. The bokeh made by a lens comes from its internal optics, including the types of internal elements and the shape of the aperture blades.Īnother item worth checking is how much chromatic aberrations (CAs) a lens produces. The shape and appearance of bokeh can range from pleasing and soft to sharp, harsh, and distracting. It’s an important element in macros, too. Portrait photographers often rave about the bokeh one lens will produce over another. Bokeh is the dreamy appearance that things in the background have when they’re out of focus. Wide-aperture lenses also have the advantage of better bokeh. It’s all about showing your audience what your main subject is, and it helps draw their eye to communicate your artistic vision better. With it, you can make an ant’s eyes sharp and clear while the rest of the ant is blurred. A wide aperture gives you maximum control over your depth of field, which is powerful in macro work. So if sharpness isn’t worth paying for in a macro lens, what is? The maximum aperture is always essential to consider. This contrasts with most lenses, which produce a field of focus that is curved. They benefit from a different lens design that results in a truly flat field of focus throughout the image. Unlike some other photography equipment, macro lenses are usually very sharp. The answer depends on what exactly you want to photograph and in what conditions. Instead of being frustrated by pushing the limits of your lenses’ abilities, you’ll be in its happy zone. You’ll be able to focus on more scenes and a wider variety of subjects with it. If you’re interested in getting up close and personal with various subjects, a macro-specific lens is what you need. Some lenses just can’t do this type of work, whether it’s because of their focal length or working distance. You may find this works out for the occasional macro photograph, but it still depends on the lens you use. You can certainly take pictures of the tiny world with a regular camera lens. By the strictest definition, a lens branded with the word “macro” ought to reproduce an image on your camera’s sensor that is a 1:1 life-sized reproduction. ![]() The first thing you need to get started in macro photography is a “macro lens” of some sort. You can also use off-camera softboxes or diffused strobes. To solve these problems, unique lens-mounted ring lights are available. Natural lighting is always best, but not useable in every case. Lighting the subject is a problem since if you are near it, you are likely to cast shadows over it.īuilt-in flashes and shoe-mounted speed lights won’t work because their light is aimed at the wrong place and will cause shadows. You are still limited by the lenses’ minimum focus distance, meaning that you may wind up several meters away from your subject to get the shot.īesides picking the right lens, other considerations need to be addressed for macro photography. Hand shake and blur are more significant problems, and a tripod becomes necessary. This technique works to a point, but the long lens introduces many other problems into the fold. On that same note, many lenses are created strictly for macro images that can focus very closely.Īlternatively, you can use a long lens to zoom in on your subject. ![]() Many lenses cannot focus close enough to something to create a 1:1 reproduction, so this doesn’t work with every camera and every lens. You can get your camera very close to the subject to ensure that it will fill the frame. There are two ways that you can go about doing macro photography. ![]() To qualify as a macro, the subject is reproduced in life-size or even larger. ![]() The most common close-up subjects are flowers, leaves, insects, or jewelry. Macro photographs are taken of tiny objects, made to look huge when blown up on a print. ![]()
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